Paestum by Weston

Text by Weston, photos by Kelli

Our group at Paestum

Today the Ancient Field Studies group had a bit of an easier day. We started with switching hotels, then went on to Paestum, following that with a 2 hour, 4 course lunch before returning to Villa Vergiliana.

We started off our day a bit early, with a breakfast of croissants, toast, and espresso. Additionally, we had orange flavored Fanta, since the store where our hosts bought the ingredients was out of orange juice. The group brought our luggage outside and loaded it onto the bus. Somehow we were able to fit all of it despite the original plan being to take the luggage and then the students to the villa in 2 separate trips. 

Once we arrived at the Villa Vergiliana, the students spent a couple minutes getting some a sweet, sweet wifi dosage after going for 3 days without it. 

Arriving at the Villa Vergiliana

The Villa Vergiliana

After spending a few minutes catching up with the outside world, we loaded back onto the bus for a 2 hour drive south to Paestum. Along the way we were greeted by spectacular vistas of the Italian coast near Salerno. After a bit more driving, the group arrived in Paestum.

Paestum

Paestum is a Greek colony near the Italian West Coast, originally founded in the 6th century B.C.E. by exiles from the Greek colony of Syberis. The colony's major industry was that of lumber, as the pine trees that grow nearby were used for shipbuilding. However, the colony began to decline after they deforested the area, until it was conquered by the Romans in the 3rd century B.C.E. Paestum is best known for its 3 Greek style temples.

We arrived, first visiting the nearby museum built to house artifacts discovered in Paestum. There, the group saw the Fresco of the Diver, one of the only complete and undamaged archaic Greek frescoes. It was part of a tomb from the 5th century B.C.E., showing a person diving into a river, metaphorically representing the afterlife. The group also observed many different artifacts from the site, including intricate terra cotta pottery. 

Artifacts at the museum in Paestum

Weston enjoys the museum

Exploring the museum in Paestum

The famous Diver fresco

After the museum, the Greg gave the group a tour of the actual ruins. We first visited the North Temple, dedicated to the Greek god Athena. Next, we visited the Heroon, a temple dedicated to a local hero of the area. This one at Paestum was dedicated to the founder of the colony, but his name has been lost to history. Next, we visited the temple of Hera 2 and temple of Hera 1. They are named such because it is not actually known which Greek gods these temples were dedicated to. The temple of Hera 1, the southernmost, has an interesting construction, with an odd number of columns on the shorter sides, suggesting that the temple was actually divided into 2 separate sections, each with different uses. Hera 1 seems to be dedicated to 2 gods, the first of which is Hera, the second of which is unknown, but possibly Poseidon. The temple of Hera 2 is the largest of the 3 temples, with an extra layer of columns surrounding the Cella, or inner sanctuary of the temple. Having circumambulated around them, we got the chance to enter into the temple of Hera 2 to see it up close. Finally, the group explored the amphitheater, which was sadly only half uncovered due to a modern road's being directly on top of the other half! 

Our group learns about the history of Paestum from Greg

Exploring Paestum

After finishing with Paestum, the group went to a local farm for a spectacular 4 course formal lunch. 

The Agriturismo Azienda Seliano outside of Paestum where we had lunch

Weston enjoys the anitpasti plate

A great meal

After dessert we are a happy group

The antipasti consisted of a charcuterie plate, with fresh prosciutto, grilled artichokes, buffalo mozzarella and ricotta cheeses, as well as a savory pastry filled with vegetables. The primi plati was a simple gnocchi dish with a pomodoro sauce and Parmesan cheese, the gnocchi being so light and fluffy. Our secondi plati was a simple beef stake with grilled vegetables in olive oil, finally followed by a chocolate amaretto cake. The meal, as is always done in fine dining, was finished with a shot of espresso.

Espresso for the group!

Espresso

Espresso

Espresso

Once lunch had been completed, the group then went on a short tour of the water buffalo farm, where our the milk for our cheeses eaten during lunch was produced. We began by seeing the bull buffalo, then moved on to see the calves, and female, milk bearing buffalo. 

Visiting the water buffalo farm

Water buffalo

Newborn water buffalo

Water buffalo

After the buffalo farm tour, we began the drive back to Naples. After arriving at the Villa Vergiliana, the group settled in before dinner, and ended their day with a relaxing chill out time on full and satisfied stomachs.

Dinner back at the Villa Vergiliana

After-dinner tea and coffee in the Villa